Cambodia

“Nothing is more important than empathy for another human being’s suffering. Nothing. Not a career, not wealth, not intelligence, certainly not status. We have to feel for one another if we’re going to survive with dignity.” Audrey Hepburn

Cambodia took me by surprise in many different ways. It’s a mixed bag, modern and thriving on one block but antiquated and poor on the next. I’ve seen this in many places, but it seems starker here. I tried to walk around, which is my usual start to a new place, but I didn’t feel safe or see other people walking around. I walked from my hotel to the central market (about a 20-minute walk), but that much convinced me to get a tuk-tuk back to the hotel. I had to walk through several military gates; I am unsure what to call them. They block many streets, but I can’t tell what they are blocking. They just laughed at me, which felt bad, but I tried to take it as friendly. Unfortunately, my first experience in Phnom Penh was my first real experience with that fearful feeling.

On top of that, my next day was the Killing Fields and S21. I knew the day would be hard and sad, but I wasn’t prepared for how brutal it would be. It’s so sad to think that humanity can be so cruel and that we don’t learn from these horrific events.

After those tours, I just had a quiet day at my hotel. I didn’t feel like exploring the city, so I’ll have to see Phnom Penh on the back end of this tour.

The next day, I jumped on a train to Kampot. I arrived at a cute bungalow on the river and a hotel gearing up for the big Water Festival celebrations. As I checked in, they warned me it would be crowded and loud, but things would settle down by dark.

I awoke early to grab breakfast and leave to tour Kampot’s pepper plantation, salt field, and secret lake. My tour was fun. I had a good group: a couple and two other solo travelers, all from Europe. We had a fantastic guide, Micki, who was informative and fun and took us to a great local place for lunch (think the little elevated huts with hammocks). When I got back to the guest house, the water festival celebrations were in full swing, but it was more of a family vibe, which I liked. There were kayaks, paddle boats, a live band, grilled food, and horseback riding. A few other foreigners were at the guest house, so after a quick kayak ride, we gathered in the bar and enjoyed watching the locals celebrate.

I began to feel better about Cambodia, although it still seemed challenging to get around. Micki explained that the roads were terrible because they were new and still on the waitlist to be paved. He said our route didn’t exist 15 years ago because the landmines hadn’t been cleared yet.

The owner of my guest house and the other travelers there convinced me to take the night train to Siem Reap. I had heard repeatedly that a night bus in Asia is an integral part of experiencing the country. It was an experience, and I’m glad to say I can check it off my list. I am not sure why everyone thinks this is a must-do, except that it is a common way to travel here, so it’s always good to see how the locals do things. But wow, I don’t advise doing it if you are claustrophobic. I had to meditate to calm myself for a few moments, but I did relax and even fell asleep for some of it. I arrived in Siem Reap quite tired. Luckily, my hotel could check me in immediately, and I crashed for the morning.

Siem Reap was fun. They were still celebrating the Water Festival, so there were fireworks every night, games, food vendors, and live music at the river. I went to see the Kampong Phluk Floating Village, which was beautiful, and it was interesting to see people living such an alternative lifestyle. The women from the village were still giving canoe rides through the mangrove forest (the water was receding because it was the dry season.) I felt fortunate to have arrived in time to get the tour. Riding through the water and trees was beautiful as the sun was setting. The ladies giving the rides were friendly and fun and chattered and mimed, constantly telling us about their work and how the water would be too low in another two weeks.

I, of course, also went to Angkor Wat and the other temples. It was unbelievable, and I kept thinking about how incredible these past few months have been, the amazing sights I’ve been lucky enough to see. Angkor Wat ranks at the top of the list. (I did have to rent the movie Tomb Raider because our guide spoke of it so often and had us posing for pictures at certain places because of the film. I skipped the photo ops, but the younger people seemed excited about them.)

I returned to Phnom Penh for my last few days in Cambodia and toured the Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, and the History Museum. My stay in Phnom Penh was much better on the return. I knew better where to stay and did manage to walk most places, but still, I have to say, walking is not easy in Cambodia, and you don’t see many people doing it. Crossing streets is complex with few traffic lights and sweltering heat, so tuk-tuks beckon easily!

I am pleased I went to Cambodia, but it was not one of my easier stops, logistically or emotionally. It is a beautiful place, rebuilding and growing after a tragic recent history. It’s essential to understand the atrocities that have happened in the world. Still, it is difficult to learn about them and tempting just to quit listening because it’s painful to hear and upsetting to hold that knowledge.

I keep thinking about how every person I know feels love for humanity and cares, and yet these things happen. We are seeing it now, and people once again distance themselves from the pain by getting bogged down in the politics of who is “right” and who is “wrong.” I think that is how it begins. We dehumanize war by debating strategy, politics, and, ironically, usually, religion. Killing innocent people who are only trying to live their lives is wrong, and it can never be justified. The only honest discussion is how to stop the killing. It’s incredible how quickly we can be distracted from the killing.

Praying for peace and sending all my love,

Bon